The Moveable Feast blog
I grew up in America in the 1960’s and 70’s, on the Southern California coast, when interesting changes were taking place in the eating habits of Americans.
I remember being terribly excited by the Moon Landing, and the subsequent production of “Pillsbury Space Food Sticks”: brown, stick-shaped nutrition-packed things, wrapped in foil, supposedly emulating the energy-efficient and exotic diet of our Men in Space. I remember lunchbox staples such as Dole mini fruit cocktails and chocolate puddings, with flip-top lids, whose metal pots weighed down your lunchbox, but blissfully masked the taste of slightly warm, tinned, tuna mayonnaise sandwiches on white bread, which were the healthy bits.
"Hungry Man"
T.V. dinners were all the rage. I had a favourite, chicken-based ”Hungry Man” t.v. dinner every time my parents went to the Light Opera and booked a baby sitter. It had a chocolate brownie in the dessert compartment – which I adored – but there always was at least one pea, or square cut carrot, imbedded in the brownie: desperate, escaped convicts from the vegetable compartment next to it.
Like many of my classmates in High School, I worked in the tourism sector, chopping onions and making French Fries at Jack-in-the-Box drive through restaurant, and McDonalds. I was working in McDonalds when the first McNuggets appeared, and we were required to suggestive-sell this new product to each customer with the following phrase:
“Good afternoon. Welcome to McDonalds. Would you like to try our new Chicken McNuggets today?”
A man in a large chicken costume stood in front of the till and gave away free samples (he didn’t have to say anything). Often, customers were stood standing in front of me, struggling to remember a precariously large order from memory; the suggestive-selling sentence usually brought them to their knees, and the order was forgotten.
I loved beach barbeques
Particularly chocolate and marshmallow S’Mores, meticulously toasted using unpainted bent wire coat hangers, and always dusted with a slightly gritty layer of beach sand. Seafood was plentiful on the menus in the local Marina. My father suffered terribly one night after a rather large “Surf ‘n’ Turf” meal, consisting of lobster and steak on the same plate. We decided the next morning that this combination really was gilding the lily.
The influence of Alice Waters
As I grew older, the influence of restauranteur
Alice Waters, in the San Francisco Bay Area, began to infiltrate California diets, and a trend towards fresh, locally sourced produce began to emerge. We began to relish the enormous supply of incredibly fresh, beautiful produce, grown practically in our back yards, and readily available throughout the calendar year in our enormous, air-conditioned supermarkets. Salads began to flourish, and become meals in their own right. Dips and crudité and fresh fruit puddings replaced the “things-with-pineapple-chunks-on-a-stick” mentality of the 1950’s cocktail party brigade. The proportion of meat-to-vegetables on a plate began to alter, and the meat – or poultry - element in a recipe became proportionally less, as people tended to try and reduce their red meat intake, and increase their fruit and vegetable intake.
When I was little, in our back garden, we had a big swimming pool, avocado and lemon trees, and a large pomegranate shrub in the front driveway. I didn’t appreciate back then, what a rare and beautiful thing this was. (I used to toss the lemons up in the air, at dusk, to attract bats, or throw them across the lawn for my Scottish terriers to catch. They both had little bleached beards below their mouths, stained by the juice of a thousand lemons). I’d love to grow these plants in my Wiltshire garden today, but I don’t think they’d survive a British winter. I didn’t learn how to cut open a pomegranate until about a month ago; I certainly never ate them as a child. But today, I can celebrate the arrival of the first forced rhubarb from Yorkshire, relish the freshest new Jersey Royals, and tender asparagus from the Wye Valley.
Mexican Cuisine, and Tex-Mex fusions, soon became popular in Southern California. Scandinavian influences became popular in the Pacific Northwest. America, on the whole, is such an enormous melting pot of cultures and inspirations, that pretty much anything you see on a plate in a Californian restaurant can have its roots in an immigrant diet from another country.
Bringing Californian cuisine to Wiltshire
It’s been such a delight bringing the colours, tastes, and seasonings of California Cuisine to Wiltshire. Of course today, many more people have a better understanding of the concept of air-miles, and the buy fresh, buy local, campaigns, which are spreading throughout the nation. I’m interested in where our food comes from, and who provides it, and I love to hear the stories of my suppliers, and the disparate journeys which have led them to bring their products to this town, and to my catering company.
From Space Food Sticks to Cobb Salads: what a journey! What incredible progress in one lifetime. I’m fond of saying that California Cuisine tastes like a holiday, and to me, it does. It takes like sunlight and fresh air and healthy living, and I intend to spread this around, wherever I go.
RECIPE: S’MORES
1 x box Graham Crackers, or Digestive biscuits
1 x bag large marshmallows
2 x 500g bars Hershey milk chocolate cooking squares, or equivalent
1 x wire coat hanger, unpainted, unbent to create one long toasting fork with a hook on the end
1 x campfire, mellowed to embers
METHOD:
Skewer as many marshmallows as you dare, onto the improvised toasting fork.
Gently brown over the embers, rotating frequently. ( Some people like a nice, evenly browned, lightly puffed marshmallow. Others prefer a flaming carbon-infused creation, in which the crispy black outer coating separates from the molten, sticky interior, giving you separate bites of crunch and cream. Many children are too impatient to wait for very long, and prefer to eat their marshmallows unscathed).
When the marshmallow is cooked to your preference, make a sandwich using two Graham cracker slices for the bread, insert four chocolate squares inside, and slide the gooey toasted marshmallow into the middle. Eat carefully: the marshmallow will be hot and sticky. When you want another one, ask for “S’More”!
Bloomfield's Greengrocers in Bradford on Avon
Karen Bloomfield grins happily, warming her frozen, mittened hands on her electric kettle. Her cheerful red and white bobble hat nods gently as she speaks. The rain sheets down relentlessly outside her tiny greengrocers shop, a small, but prime, location in The Shambles, Bradford-on-Avon.
“I am at the heart of Bradford-on-Avon”, she explains, describing her customer base as “very loyal”, many having visited her shop for nearly 30 years.
It’s easy to see why. Despite the foul weather, the inside of her shop is a riot of colour, glossy fruit and veg of every description packed into the store itself, and pushing out onto the pavement. The produce looks big, healthy, and delicious, and with daily 7.30 a.m. deliveries from Bath Wholesale, six days a week, the food is incredibly fresh, even in the depths of winter.
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Bradford on Avon celebrates 30 years of Bloomfield's and BoA Business present her with the Crystal Vase in recognition of her contribution to the town. |
Karen has a passion for food.
As a young sixteen-year-old, she enrolled in a Hotel & Catering course, determined to own her own pub. After a year Karen decided it wasn’t for her, and found a stop-gap job in the greengrocer shop, while looking for a new career. Thirty years’ on, she is still a dedicated produce supplier, who hasn’t had a holiday for ten years. She says she doesn’t want to let her customers down.
Karen remembers the day, aged 23, when she was offered the ownership of the shop, by her employer.
She describes how unconfident she felt, taking on the enormous responsibility of running her own business, but her boss convinced her to have faith and say yes. Luckily for us, she took that leap, describing the perks of the business by saying “What I put in, is what I get out”.
Recently, Karen’s value in the community was confirmed, when her father passed away and she closed the shop, uncharacteristically, for ten days. Her customers were very keen to tell her how much she was missed, and despite the sadness of the event, Karen felt a support and commitment from her customers that gave her comfort and confidence in her work.
Seasonal, and fresh, are her top priorities
Karen loves running her own business, and loves her central location, where she can be her own boss, and knows everybody in town. Even the pupils from local Christchurch school visit weekly, choosing their own produce, and carrying it up to the school for their school dinners.
Seasonal, and fresh, are her top priorities, and even in mid-February customers are tempted by startlingly pink Yorkshire rhubarb, gorgeous clementines, all manner of freshly picked vegetables, and newly laid eggs from Woolley Park Farms’ own hens.
It’s difficult to describe how satisfying it is to see this small, local business thriving, providing the most delightful and delicious-looking fruit and vegetables to this food-loving town. Karen is Bradford-on-Avon born and bred, and she gives back to her community in a joyful and energetic way. We can’t imagine what the town would do without her.
Marcie Layton, 14 February 2018
MOVEABLE FEAST CATERING COMPANY
01225 859965
Walter Rose & Son Butchers, Devizes
The glass-topped food displays are elegantly laid out, serpentine, like the grandest of Edwardian banquets. It is pure Mrs. Beeton: Pies, sausages, quiches, pates, blending into poultry and game birds of every description, overtaken by the glossiest of scallops, fresh, shining, great piles of fish and crustacea.
A short hop across the aisle brings you to brightly rubied cuts of the finest beef, pork and lamb products, haunches thick with rich fat, marbelled roasts and neatly trimmed chops. In the window, an extensive shop front displays mounds and mounds of chubby, coiled sausages of every description.
Unexpectedly, a tall glass jar displays fat white sugar mice, scrambling over each other to the lip of the jar. A small child stands waiting while her father shops, fingers pressed to the glass, staring intently at the treasure trove of fabulous food.
This is WALTER ROSE & SON, butchers, of Devizes.
Four generations of the Cook family have created this legendary Wiltshire icon, having purchased the business from Walter Rose in 1976.
Today, brothers Jack and Charlie head an 80-strong team of butchers and staff, providing retail products from their shop in Sidmouth St., and also catering for the needs of several food industry businesses throughout Wiltshire and the South West.
Great-Grandson Jack tells us, as we climb the thin, tight stairs to his office, that the draft through the shop is intentional; a fresh air current promotes a healthy environment for the products. The long, narrow, twin conjoined shops emit an atmosphere of cleanliness, tidiness, and carefully produced food.
“The Best…” is such a subjective term.
When I was told by a local restauranteur that Walter Rose & Son was “The Best” in Wiltshire, I wanted to visit The Best, and decide for myself what Best really means. Different customers value different things:some prefer congenial shop staff with the gift of the gab; others seek out a recipe-loving butcher who trades cooking tips with his customers; and still other shoppers need a proprietor with an encyclopaedic knowledge of all cuts of meat. It’s hard to be everything to everyone.
A slate board outside the shop proudly displays the banner, “NATIONAL BUTCHER of the YEAR”, from the Meat Traders Journal. This takes things far beyond the subjective. This is competition with the best in the business, and Walter Rose & Son comes out trumps.
I expected our meeting with Jack to cover meat, and grazing methods perhaps, and which-chop-goes where in the anatomy of a sheep. And yet we spoke most about the people, the customer-base, the wallet-wielding locals who loyally frequent the business, in addition to the enormous wholesale base of shops, restaurants, and hotels, in Wiltshire itself and further afield.
Helping their customers
A typical Walter Rose customer used to be in the semi-retired/retired age bracket, traditional shoppers with traditional shopping methods and loyalty to their small local specialist shops. Jack wondered how to reach the next generation of consumers: the online/ smart-phone/home delivery set, with trending tastes and a weakness for efficiency in all things retail.
Education and outreach were key: inform and guide the next generation of consumers, who had money to spend and a desire to spend it well, but weren’t confident enough to march up to the counter and ask for Chateaubriand, as opposed to a rump steak, and didn’t know a medallion from a noisette.
Helping shoppers with their purchases in the store, and providing seminars and butchery outreach programmes in the community, helped to raise a level of awareness about popular food topics: animal husbandry, health, diet and fitness, and budget-conscious menus.
Social media was also key in terms of garnering interest from the next generation. A very active Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram presence ensures that online shoppers are brought into the fold as well. A highly visible traditional bicycle-delivery service guarantees a delightful presence in the town throughout the week.
The generation of consumers caught up in the changeover tangle between Imperial- versus- metric measurements, will continue to feel a small knot of anxiety when trying to choose amounts of product on a display counter, and will perhaps short-cut the process and buy pre-packaged, pre-weighed, pre-priced items in a supermarket.
In Walter Rose & Son, a small army of staff is on hand to guide you through the process of choosing your items, and will offer advice on amounts, recipes, cooking methods, specialty cuts, and help in any way possible to ensure that you leave happy and knowledgeable about the food you are planning to serve.
What’s their top-selling item?
“Chicken, sirloin and fillet steaks.” Jack’s personal favourite, for best flavour, is the rump steak. Their party piece for special occasions is the Beef Wellington. Their budget best-seller is brawn, which they can barely keep in stock.
Although the shop is incredibly well-stocked with every conceivable sort of meat, poultry, game, and fish, when I ask Jack which is the real “ unsung hero of the shop”, which deserves more attention, he replied immediately “pork”, and described lean pork as being on a par with poultry, in terms of healthy eating.
“Buy fresh, undressed cuts” he recommends.
As we said our goodbyes, and made our way to the busy shop front with lunch in mind, I asked Jack to give us a top tip for customers when visiting a new butcher for the first time. He described to us an old butchery trick of taking the remainder of unsold product from one day, and covering it in sauces and dressings for the next. “Buy fresh, undressed cuts” he recommends. You can see the meat clearly and choose the best.
My shopping bags were bulging as we left, including a stunning show-stopper Fore Rib Roast for Valentine’s Day, plump, glistening fresh-as-fresh can be scallops, and perfectly trimmed lamb noisettes. Tomorrow’s lunch will be a lovely little curiosity, “Jacob’s Ladder”: two racks of beef short ribs, perfect for my slow cooker, braised in a thick tomato sauce, pungent with smoked garlic from the Walter Rose delicatessen.
Walter Rose & Son Butchers
Website
01380 722335
21/22 Sidmouth St., Devizes, Wiltshire BA14 8AA